Kurdistan Regional Government
WED, 19 JUN 2013 16:35 Erbil, GMT +3
English LngSep Kurdî LngSep کوردی LngSep عربی

My Experience of Kurdistan

TUE, 17 JAN 2012 14:21 | Rudaw

By Reina Saiki

Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan -- Mountains. Huts. Squat toilets. I write candidly and with no offense – these are things I first thought of when I decided I will travel to Iraqi Kurdistan, to work for three weeks in the city of Erbil. Information was severely limited in regards to travel advice in Kurdistan; I mainly gathered bits and pieces from various blogs and travel forums. My lack of knowledge about Kurdish society and culture contributed to my shock when I walked off the plane and entered Erbil International Airport, a sleek, modern building with sparkling white floors, the most up-to-date security systems, and to my utter surprise, Western toilets.

Though currently I am a graduate student, prior to my studies, I worked at former President Bill Clinton’s office in Harlem, New York City. As a Foreign Policy Researcher, I supported the President’s work by preparing briefings and reports related to his meetings abroad. Though I worked on briefing documents for a wide range of countries – from Europe to Asia, and even the slightly obscure countries like Macedonia – sadly, Kurdistan was never on the list.

Since arriving here, many locals have asked me what I think of Erbil and of Kurdistan. And I have embarrassingly answered each time that quite frankly, I was surprised at how big and modern the city is, admitting that the Kurdistan I had in my mind prior to my trip was a backwards country still recovering from Saddam-era oppression and bombings. I imagine I am certainly not the first foreigner to travel to Kurdistan with such unintentional, but blatant, ignorance. As I mentioned before, there is very little accurate travel information about Kurdistan freely available. Because the region is modernizing at a rapid pace, new businesses and buildings pop up every year, making it impossible to keep what little information that is available online completely up to date.

I had the opportunity to interview Newzad Hadi, Governor of Erbil, who gave me a historical overview of Erbil, one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. From Assyrians, Persians, Romans, and to Mongols, the city has been touched by many, and nowhere can the region’s rich cultural history and marks of ancient civilization be seen more than in the Citadel located at the heart of Erbil.

“Everything I saw seemed to contradict my initial expectations.”

Complementing this historical significance is the city’s rapid development and its growing importance as an economic hub of Iraq. “We started out with about $4 billion in our 2004 budget for the region. In 2011, we had about $10 billion,” said Hadi. “We also support the private sector to be more active. We now have more than $11 billion in investment from the private sector. Erbil is becoming the capital of the economy of Iraq – it’s a big center for trade.”

And it shows. The malls I have visited are enormous and kept pristine; they easily rival the American malls I frequent back home. The many parks in Erbil are a welcome escape from the busy streets. According to Hadi, there are over 190 hotels in Erbil, and all of them are kept busy, especially in the summer time and during holiday seasons. Erbil also boasts hospitals with expert doctors who come from all across the region, private universities, and prestigious international schools. New infrastructure projects are constantly being planned to accommodate the rapidly growing city.

Outside of Erbil, I had the opportunity to get a glimpse of other areas of Kurdistan. The bustling city of Sulaymaniya, encompassed by beautiful scenery. Dohuk and its surrounding mountains. The breathtaking views of the canyons and mountains in Northeastern Kurdistan. Everything I saw seemed to contradict my initial expectations.

The region itself is not the only thing that surprised me. The hospitality of the Kurdish people – their good nature, their spirited laughs, their unabashed curiosity to learn new things – startled me even more. The people here do not just offer their help, they insist on it. Even in my own home countries of America and Japan, I would seldom receive this kind of hospitality and genuine kindness.

Having had the opportunity to meet with and interview several MPs and party officials, I learned that in the political arena, Kurdistan is just as determined to mature and strengthen. What surprised me most was, despite the decades of oppression and abuse the Kurdish people have endured, how optimistic the people are, particularly those in politics. Or perhaps it is because of the repression they have overcome that they are able to plan for the future without being fettered by their past. Both the politicians and the general population display a certain confidence in their identity and a loyalty to their region that are unmatched anywhere else in the region.

Of course, Kurdistan is not without its problems and challenges. The Turkey-PKK conflict near the northern border puts the KRG at a difficult position vis-à-vis Turkey, a country that has increasingly become an important economic partner. Though living standards are quickly improving in the major cities, many rural areas still suffer from economic underdevelopment. The amount of garbage and litter on the streets was astonishing, given most Kurds’ pride in the magnificent beauty of their natural environment. Amnesty International has issued reports on the inhumane state of overcrowded prisons in Kurdistan, requesting the KRG to reform detention policies and construct new prisons.

“No matter how much Kurdistan changes, the people’s solidarity never will.”

Yet, there is no denying that politically and economically, both at the regional and global levels, Iraqi Kurdistan is fast developing into a major player. In a region rife with stalled democracy and a skewed sense of power, Kurdistan’s booming economy and political progress deserve far wider international recognition and support.

Hadi ended our interview with this. “We have suffered in the past,” he said. “And now we are our own. But we would never even think about taking revenge against those who wronged us in the past, against our people in Iraq…never.”

“We focus instead on the development of our region and our city to help our people. This region is the product of the efforts of the Kurds…the vision of the Kurds.”

From a prominent MP to one of the richest CEOs in Iraq, from my Rudaw colleagues to the young man selling CDs on Iskan Street, everyone I have had the pleasure of meeting is very proud of Kurdistan, but equally humble. Wealth is not flaunted and excessive display of opulence is not well received in Kurdistan, in stark contrast to other oil-rich nations of the Middle East. Despite the region’s growth and rapidly increasing wealth, it seems to me there is an unspoken acknowledgment that no matter how much Kurdistan changes, the people’s solidarity never will. Respect for each and every individual, for the family, for the community, and for Kurdistan – I believe it is these Kurdish values that politicians, businessmen, civil society leaders, and the citizenry hold dear to their heart and work to preserve that distinguish the region.

Latest Articles

EU High Representative Ashton visits the Kurdistan Region

Erbil, Kurdistan Region – Iraq (KRG.org) – The Kurdistan Region’s President and Prime Minister on Monday in Erbil met with the European Union’s foreign affairs chief, Catherine Ashton, on her first visit to the Region. The EU’s High Representative visited Erbil to discuss Iraq’s currently instability and the Kurdistan Region’s relations with the federal government. 

President Barzani and US State Department official discuss Iraq, Syria

Salahaddin, Kurdistan Region, Iraq (KRP.org) – President Masoud Barzani met with the US Deputy Assistant Secretary of State, Brett McGurk, to discuss the recent political developments in Iraq and in the wider region.

A thriving American legacy in Iraq

President Barzani Receives Prime Minister Maliki

BBC video report: Halabja chemical attack victims demand justice in Paris court

Victims of Saddam-era poison gas attack on Kurds demand French investigation into suppliers

Kurds who suffered Saddam Hussein chemical weapons attack accuse French suppliers

June edition of The Review highlights oil and gas

Video: Erbil: Iraq's new tourist magnet

President Barzani meets senior US Government delegation



    © 2013 Kurdistan Regional Government, KRG